Beer: Alhambra 5.0%With the sea apparently too rough for the ferry to El Puerto de Santa Maria (lightweight Iberians, no wonder they lost at Trafalgar), we go on an excursion to Jerez on the train. Big sherry destination Jerez, of course, although you wouldn’t think it in this drab, rainy, weather.
As with many old towns, the centre is quite a trek from the station – and from there, we pop along to the tourist information – on to an underwhelming cathedral – and decide against the Tio Pepe tour. We really don’t do/know sherry. We don’t do flamenco either, not really, so are well out of our depth when we eventually get to Tabanco El Pasaje; the quintessential sherry/flamenco establishment according to the Jerez specific “10 best bars” bumph we got off The Guardian or some such.
It’s a fantastic place, naturally. We feel obliged to sample the sherry but, again, we have no idea; we order different varieties, sip away, make quiet self-conscious “yeh, s’nice” noises… and then the artsy folk up by the tiny little stage start on the flamenco.
And it’s spectacular too – especially the lass doing the dancing and clapping and that. She’s petite, pretty and terrifying… staring out to the audience like she wants to smash our teeth in. Isn’t it a bit early for that much concentrated duende?
We are out of our depth. We stay for another drink – but it's beer for us. We’re lousy tourists with very little understanding of what’s on offer. Our appreciation, my notes cackhandedly suggest, is akin to one who visits the Louvre and appreciates the painting of the skirting boards. We don’t know what we’re dealing with – fascinating though it undoubtedly is.
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