345. Thu 15/3/18: Café Salon Bahia, Cádiz

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%
Another quietly innocuous bar away from the throng. The telly piques interest in this place though, as Viktoria Plzeň are beating Sporting Lisbon in the Europa League. They’re 2-0 up, 2-2 on agg… extra-time…

The bar is reasonably quiet, but has eight fruit machines – which gives the place the feel of a Czech Herna bar. It’s not as dingy as that, mind, although the array of tapas on display looks a little forlorn.

Sporting score an away goal on 105 minutes. Booo.

It’s not really our cue to leave, but we do anyway. It’s our last evening in Cádiz and, though we’re a little fatigued anyway, the little bars at the station end of the old town haven’t really been brilliant.

Cádiz, though, is an excellent, laid back little city – which we’ve thoroughly enjoyed.

334. Wed 14/3/18: Tabanco El Pasaje, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain

Beer: Alhambra 5.0%

With the sea apparently too rough for the ferry to El Puerto de Santa Maria (lightweight Iberians, no wonder they lost at Trafalgar), we go on an excursion to Jerez on the train. Big sherry destination Jerez, of course, although you wouldn’t think it in this drab, rainy, weather.

As with many old towns, the centre is quite a trek from the station – and from there, we pop along to the tourist information – on to an underwhelming cathedral – and decide against the Tio Pepe tour. We really don’t do/know sherry. We don’t do flamenco either, not really, so are well out of our depth when we eventually get to Tabanco El Pasaje; the quintessential sherry/flamenco establishment according to the Jerez specific “10 best bars” bumph we got off The Guardian or some such.

It’s a fantastic place, naturally. We feel obliged to sample the sherry but, again, we have no idea; we order different varieties, sip away, make quiet self-conscious “yeh, s’nice” noises… and then the artsy folk up by the tiny little stage start on the flamenco.

And it’s spectacular too – especially the lass doing the dancing and clapping and that. She’s petite, pretty and terrifying… staring out to the audience like she wants to smash our teeth in. Isn’t it a bit early for that much concentrated duende?

We are out of our depth. We stay for another drink – but it's beer for us. We’re lousy tourists with very little understanding of what’s on offer. Our appreciation, my notes cackhandedly suggest, is akin to one who visits the Louvre and appreciates the painting of the skirting boards. We don’t know what we’re dealing with – fascinating though it undoubtedly is.

    

340. Wed 14/3/18: El Serrallo, Cádiz

Beer: San Miguel 5.0%

We watch the second half of the football (Barcelona 2-0 Chelsea) in this bar, a couple of doors down and nearer the fountain in Plaza Mentidero.

It’s a San Miguel bar, which is nice. Steph, untypically, has been moaning about Cruzcampo minutes earlier… frankly though, there are odd times when even this beer starts going down quite nicely after the first couple. This seems like one of those nights.

Messi scores again.

Clientele, made up of aged old fellas, sat on round tables at the end of the bar where the telly is, murmur muted appreciation. I’m bored of this meaningless megla-millionaire football.

They all disappear as soon as the match ends, but we sit and discuss relative values of Cádiz compared to Seville. It seems decidedly more laid back here, which is nice. I’m not entirely sure we’ll be coming back soon – but it’s a lovely place.

 

382. Fri 30/3/18: The Black Horse, Luton

Beer: Pheasantry Aurora 4.8%

There’s lots and time and effort gone into The Black Horse – and into events like this. This time round, landlord Chris has set a dozen or more casks in the beer garden, and has spent time and money on pretty elaborate festival menus.

We’ve become pre-match Saturday afternoon regulars recently, and some of the older beer bore Town fans are holding court in the middle of the pub. We find a space near the stage, near the back, nearer the festival barrels out in a beer tent in the garden. Decent though the beer selection is, the evening clientele make it difficult to enjoy it. Without wanting (but doubtless failing) to sound like I’d ideally like to see the gentrification of every pub we visit, one does feel this pub deserves better patrons than it seems to attract now. It’s difficult to imagine there’s much enthusiasm for the beer festival among much of the crowd in tonight.

It’s a pity. We stay for one – and head back for the Brickies.

355. Sat 17/3/18: Café Central, Seville

Beer: Paulaner Hefe-Weissdier 5.5%
The over friendly bloke who arrived (late) to show us our apartment was, as they tend to be, something of a tour guide – marking places on the map that we should go to/see. We explain that, though we’ve been to Seville a number of times, we’ve never really explored the Macarena area. He points out an excellent tapas bar near Alameda de Hércules, which has prompted this Saturday afternoon expedition in inclement conditions. We’re bedraggled and miserable – but find the place. It looks awful. It looks like a TGI joint, an “all you can eat” diner or summat.

But it’s pissing down. We’re cutting an increasingly forlorn smear through what seems like a potentially trendy area; and Café Cental (the next port in a strorm) seems quite a trendy bar. We don’t feel we belong. It’s way too young and cool for us – but not achingly/archingly so. It’s nice and relaxed, and the beer is very nice – and only twice as expensive as the local brew.

We have a couple. We discuss whether this place (and possibly Alameda de Hércules in general) is another gay bar (in the gay area). We’re not sure. We don’t care. We’re too damp to care (and not in a sexy way). We think on going somewhere closer to our digs – somewhere closer to our budget, and back amongst our trendless aged demographic.

323. Mon 12/3/18: Casa Lazo, Cádiz

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%

From the market environs we carry on in a north easterly direction, at a tangent to our digs; passing a cinema (where we decide against seeing a film). We end up outside Casa Lazo, which appears to be more porcine restaurant than pub. Looking in, though, there is a bar area – so we venture inside.

It’s a thriving little place: the clientele this afternoon seem almost entirely made up of one or two extended families (the youngest members of which are far too noisy).

The bar seems to be trying very hard with its tapas, but nobody seems too interested. We get some complimentary olives, which does for us.

383a. Sat 31/3/18: The White House, Luton

Beer: Green Beacon Three Bolt 4.5%

Pre-Bear Club reading visit. The White House is pretty full and there's a palpable sense of low expectation. I shuffle through from the New Bedford Road side to the Old Bedford Road side before ordering what looks an interesting guest beer from Australia. It's nasty which, to be fair to 'Spoons, is a little unusual. I try and convince myself the vinegar taste is 'citrus notes' and stomach the foul brew.

Reading was ok. The White House has a very similar atmosphere to the Arndale; convenient, barn like and giving every impression of offering a huge choice. Which I suppose it does.

             

361. Sun 18/3/18: Mariatrifulca, Seville

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%

Don’t be fooled, this is the rat bar. We saw rats around the riverbank – under the Triana Bridge - from this place a few years ago. This bar has been gentrified since – as, apparently, has Seville - I bet the rats have been asked to move on from this stretch of the Guadalquivir. Seville seems more affluent, generally, than a few years ago. There’s loads more tourists too.

Good for Seville, I suppose… we liked it a little more shambolic.

Is this a Cruzcampo tank pub now? I’m not sure, the bar area seemed to be bedecked in brass fittings. The seafood looked lovely… again, they could more than likely do without scumbags like us – only here for a beer – these days.

I forgot to take any pictures with my phone – something I only realised once we’d left – so the picture is a snap taken from the other side of the bridge. Mariatrifulca is the building partially obscured by the lamppost. That big window was the one from where we saw the aforementioned rats.

364. Sun 18/3/18: El Rinconcillo, Seville

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%

Still, after all these years, the oldest tapas bar in Seville. It’s quite packed in here, as usual, and all fried fish appears to be off the menu.

Love these creakingly aged places; places where the patina has patina… but it’s getting very crowded and the staff seem to be having trouble coping. It’s a pity. There’s another guided tour in here. The fact that English speaking parties are being herded into places we’re visiting, and being spoon-fed “local culture”, is getting ticklish. And painfully embarrassing: one can’t help listening in, learning a little, wincing a lot.

We should probably stick to places off the tourist track… there are some perfectly adequate, and empty, bars in the area (serving the same dull beer). But this is a fantastic place – I wouldn’t want to miss it. When in Seville, do as the tourists do – just try your best to avoid the rush.

We eventually get to order some squid – which is unremarkable. On my insistence we also get chickpeas and spinach which (and it’s not the same outside El Rinconcillo) is, for me, possibly the best tapas dish there is.

347. Fri 16/3/18: Pérez Santos Ventura, Seville

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%

The signs and the canopy say Bar Arenal Ventura – but Google Earth namecheck Pérez Santos.

Anyway, this is a small bar near the bullring. It’s quiet at the moment, but it’s looking pretty plush… actually, that goes for Seville itself. It seemed a bit run down, down on its heels a few years ago – it’s now looking far brighter and better maintained. There also seem to be far more tourists now than there was before – and that can’t just be down to easyJet's new route flying direct from Luton.

A group of a dozen or so blokes are having a whale of a time – and eventually start getting on my nerves. Steph suggests I stop being stupid, and get another round in.

This bar, this area generally, is fervent bullfighting territory – and walls are festooned with framed black and white shots of bulls and blokes in camp costume preparing to stick a sword into them.

375. Wed 21/3/18: The White House, Luton

Beer: Sambrooks Flat White Stout 4.5%

Has the JDWWH had a post refurb makeover since my last visit? It seems somehow more warming and welcoming than usual. Maybe it’s just the unusually quiet and polite clientele at 05:30pm on a Wednesday.

The beer is delicious.

The tranquil mood is bludgeoned as Darren, a fellow we’ve known for thirty odd years arrives, and exuberantly takes us back to yesteryear: tales of acquaintances I’m not entirely sure we shared (“no… I’m sure I’d recognise him/her if I saw him/her”). Crazy days (NB: they weren’t that crazy, not for me). Darren’s still crazy. I’ve not changed in 25 years, he lies. He’s still in skinny fit jeans – and looking amazing.

Darren’s a force of nature, and his appearance smashes the air of quietly whimsical contemplation I try to maintain on the solo sneaky pint. He’s a lovely fella but, bloody hell…

On my way out Darren suggests we go out one night – “just you and me. We’ll f***ing smash it”. I’m naturally flattered/scared/confused/struck by awe and star.

379d Thu 29/3/18: The Cottage Loaf, Llandudno

Beer: Limestone Cowboy 4.5%

One of my favourite pubs here in Llandudno, either reasonably or very busy depending on the time of day. Can be an over propensity to reserve tables for eaters. Always a good selection of Welsh ales though. Bit dangerous to eat outside - seagulls will try and steal your food. I was over optimistic about the weather trying to push Spring along so ditched the jacket in favour of t-shirt/jumper combo. Bit of an error-bloomin' cold on the Pier. I'm not a cider drinker but the Welsh Black Dragon is a smooth flat drinkable cider (7.2%) which is rather appealing - the missus couldn't finish it.

363. Sun 18/3/18: Cerveceria el Tremendo, Seville

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%

An affable English speaking fellow at the party we gatecrashed in Cádiz (see episode 332) agreed that Cruzcampo is indeed an inferior product now – but there were still places in Seville that sold the good old traditional beer of yore. He gave us some names, which I jotted down in my Czech penguin notebook – and this is one of them.

There certainly seems to be something about this place. It looks clean and bright enough, but generally just bog standard – but it’s extremely popular with the locals. The bar probably has a long tradition as a community hub – but there are no shortage of establishments in this area (including El Rinconcillo, the oldest tapas bar in Seville, just round the corner), not many of which are nearly this busy… (El Rinconcillo is busier – but it is considerably bigger, and better represented on guide books and on telly).


I’m not sure about the beer. I don’t think it’s a relentlessly fizzy as normal, and maybe tastes a bit different/better. Stephanie remains sceptical of that opinion.

I’ve also noticed a sign saying “Cerveza Cruzcampo de barril” in this and, it turns out, several other places (including Casa Morales). The untranslated blurb I’ve managed to look up on the internet since does suggest at a non-pasteurised version – and this is probably it.

341. Thu 15/3/18: El Faro, Cádiz

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%

Superior fish restaurant in old town Cádiz. We’ve picked up this tip at the party on Tuesday night in the market (no.332), courtesy of the bloke who said Rick Stein really didn’t go to the best places on his long weekend in Cadiz programme. He might be right… we still love Rick (though not as much as Brian) Stein.

The man in the market advised us to go to the bar, not the restaurant. So we do.

The bar is posh but accommodating. The barman looks like he’d prefer to be waiting our table, but is friendly and courteous. Everyone, it seems, wants the tortillitas de camarones (prawn fritters). They arrive, and are fantastic – far better than the ones we’ve had previously. We also have deep fried anchovy and deep fried prawns.

We don’t see the restaurant of course, but the bar is immaculate. Not the kind of place, though, where you’d necessarily want to stick around if you’re not eating – but then the food is so good (and so deep fried) that you don’t want to be not eating.

Delicious. Not cheap. Best move on.

365. Sun 18/3/18: El Cangrejo, Seville

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%

Escape El Rinconcillo, which is a fantastic place – but too much, and back to the Cerverceria El Tremendo environs. Right next door to that – looking though it’s mostly employed to cater for the overspill from its more illustrious neighbour, is El Cangrejo.

We’ve been here before (see episode 58), and been somewhat underwhelmed. El Tremendo is small and basic, and El Cangrejo is a step down from that. It’s just a very small, nicely tiled and brightly lit, bar dispensing “Cerveza Cruzcampo de Barril”. This, I’m starting to believe, is the premium variety of the brew – as endorsed by the bloke in the market in Cadiz – that is only available in a handful of places: here, next door, Casa Morales etc.

It really does taste different… I try and persuade myself. Stephanie (and, to be honest, my age addled tastebuds) aren’t convinced.

Anyway the ceramic sign on the wall, which suggests they sell CCdB, leads me to believe that this bar has something going for it – so (whoever is running the place these days) is this time spared the pity I dumped upon it/them eleven months back.

378a Fri 23/3/18: The Parcel Yard, London

Beer: Sierra Nevada 5%

A second visit to The Parcel Yard in recent weeks. This time, I'm on my own, filling before the train home and trying to finish The Mask of Dimitrios by Eric Ambler.

The pub's fairly busy with a mixed clientele; some travelers with luggage, a few after work tipplers and a few groups who look like they may have decided to spend a night's social, here at 'The Yard'. Fair play to them; The Parcel Yard is a Fullers pub, so the beer's decent and the decor and atmosphere probably beats the station pubs at St Pancras and Euston. Not a wholly 'essential pub' - the loos are shabby and on this visit, I'm alarmed by a group of lads, one of whom looks particularly psychotic. He's telling his companions they've got to get their stories straight and look out for their mates. In fairness, members of the group don't look like criminal masterminds or heavy duty thugs, but I pick a place to sit some distance from them.

348 Fri 16/3/18: Bodega San José, Seville

Beer: Cruzcampo 5.0%

Is this the quintessential Seville bar? Possibly. Probably. It had more character before it was shut down – it’s reopened, it’s much cleaner: doesn’t seem to require a health warning, but it’s lost some colour in the wash.

Seville, I suppose, is blessed with a number of pubs that just seem “must visit”, in our opinion. This place, Casa Matias, Casa Morales, El Rinconcillo, Bar Santa Ana over the bridge – and we keep finding others. The beer is all the same, and it’s not very good, but a fair few of the bars are excellent all the same.

Anyway, on this visit, it's late afternoon and the bar is quite quiet – until it starts raining and folk come in to avoid it. It’s instantly very busy and very noisy in here.

Among the recent intake a Spanish lady interrogates an Australian chap about his relationship with a lady workmate, who accompanies him. They’re both drinking sangria, which seems a little clichéd. We, like she, assumed the couple were a couple – but apparently they’re not. They look pretty close though… still, we’re not going to pry – but we’ll gladly listen in while somebody else does.

311 Sat 3/3/18: The Chequers, Caddington

Beer: Otter Bitter 3.6%

Trudge through the slowly thawing snow to Caddington for a (very much needed) haircut, and stop at The Chequers. I prefer the quirkier Cricketers personally, but give the pub on the other side of the green a go.

It’s quiet, the beer is fine. The conversation at the bar (among four or five regulars) is of the snobs on the new estates – them that can’t afford a place in Harpenden but turn noses up at Luton. I didn’t really get the giste

Town are away at Cambridge, it’s still 0-0 by my allotted 15:30 appointment time. My chunky 80’s (presumably handknitted/ebay procured) Town scarf is admired by a fellow fan as I’m leaving. He wants to chat about Hatters’ progress this season – and apparently takes slight umbrage at my suggestion that we’ve not been playing well for a while. Anyway, yes, hope you’re right, we’ll see, big match next week… cheers mate… bye

Hair gets cut – Collins scores – Collins gets sent off - Town concede second half equaliser. FT: CUFC 1 LTFC 1

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