42 Wed 12/04/2017: Bar Santa Ana, Seville

Beer: Cruzcampo 5%

Best bar in Triana which, to my mind, is the best area of Seville. There’s a sense of brotherhood and community in the gypsy quarter which (although it almost certainly exists) isn’t quite so apparent across the Guadalquivir. This side of the river seems more laid back, and not so touristy, as the other areas we frequent. The bars, I find, have a different character – with service which sometimes seems withering towards us idiot English speakers. I quite like that, it reminds me of Czech.

Anyway “our bar” in Triana has been found by others during Semana Santa, although it isn’t unbearably packed. Almost all the pictures (and most of the tiles) on the walls are Semana Santa based – the church is right next door, and the local peso hangar is just over the road. There are also a few Toro photos and a huge bulls head on the wall.

There was an ad on Semana Santa telly for a bread product that is clearly part of the tradition. There’s some of it on the bar – and a bloke sitting at the corner of the bar orders a slice. I’m gazing, in a world of my own, at the transaction and wondering how the bloke will tackle the unctuous slice. With the spoon… it looks soft… and then the bloke starts talking to me – and pointing me out to the barman. I thought, at first, he’d noticed how my miserable bar presence was floundering. You’ve got to shout at the bar people here when it’s busy – but I’m an Englishman, and particularly reserved example at that. But, no, he’s asking (and preparing to pay) for a slice of the bread for me. A charming gesture… once I’d sussed out what he was up to. The bread appeared to have been soaked in syrup, and is/was extremely sweet. Nice enough though and, again a lovely gesture. Anyway, he offered monies, but the syrup bread was gratis.

My notes on the visit include two other observations: 1) Young gentlemen wearing beards, as is the fashion these days, mean there are lots of fellows around these days who look a little bit like Jesus. 2) Bars go big for coffee over here. There are those who’d argue a good coffee is better than a good beer (and you don’t get a good beer over here). I prefer beer intoxication over caffeine, but maybe it’s a dialogue that deserves exploration…. but not here and now.